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The latest information on the lon g-turned road EXPLORE recreation package

The first climb is usually full of surprises. So we love the first climb. Navigating the known and unknown issues that the route throws requires all skills and experience. The world's first EXPLORE Act Recreation Package, like the FA, proves that it must present and work further.

Did you remember that the Expanding Public Lands Outdoor Recreation Experience, which was submitted by Representative Westerman (Republican) and a member of the Representative Glyhalva (the Democratic Party) last April, was unanimously passed in the House of Representatives. This bill includes several bills that have a deep impact on recreation. The Simplified Outdoor Access for Recreation Act (SOAR) is a priority for 10 years for partner organizations such as AAC, AMGA, Outdoor Alliance, and The Mountaineers. This updates the recreation permit for the guide and streamlines it, making the outdoors more familiar.

Explore also includes Protecting America's Rocking Act (PARC), which has been cooperated by AAC and Access Fund. This protects the historical use and maintenance of fixed anchors in Will Danes, and reconfirm the appropriateness of climbing on public land.

Other factors in the package include the permanentization of the BOLT method, the FICOR (interconnection of the federal agencies on outdoor recreation), the outdoor recreation heritage partnership, the recreation knot red tape, and the outdoor infrastructure. Like.

In the latest September DC visit, in conjunction with Outdoor Alliance's 10th anniversary event, we have to form a team, pass the Explore as a single bill, or to make a pass, such as the National Defense Law (NDAA). We worked on the Senator to secure time for the parliament to attach to the bill. Unfortunately, EXPLORE did not enter the NDAA administrator correction.

The Federal Congress was busy with the financial funding of the federal government, and as a result, a resolution (now common) to supply curren t-level government funds until December 20. Considering the mechanics of the election year, the change of the leaders, and the influence of the Remedak Congress, it is quite difficult to accurately predict how Explore is passed in the parliament.

One possibility is that it could be combined with a major land package at the end of the year. This would be a good thing, but it could be complicated given the various political motivations of lawmakers after the election. With EXPLORE's strong bipartisan and bicameral support, we are hopeful that we can find a path to secure passage of a recreation package this Congress, regardless of the election outcome.

One thing is for sure: there are no guarantees. Just like there is no guarantee of the summit in climbing, no bill is a sure thing. We will continue to move forward, step by step, and get the job done.

... The pressure of sticking to Yosemite and understanding that performing at Yosemite isn't the only place to become famous... plus bouldering and development ethics in Washington, sending the Canadian Trilogy, and the negative and positive aspects of being a route setter.

In this episode, you'll hear from Nathan Hadley!

Resources

Connect Summiting Denali, Living the Dream

In this episode, we welcome Live Your Dream grantee John Thompson to the pod to talk about his journey to Denali! The Live Your Dream grant is The North Face's most popular grant.

John's LYD story is about a sense of urgency that now is the time to explore and pursue big adventures. A strong sense of carpe diem. After nearly a decade away from Denali, John only returned after being caught up in helping with a rescue and not being able to pursue his goal route due to weather. We spoke to John about his experience with the grant, helping with the rescue, his journey away from climbing and back, how guiding has shaped his climbing, and why it means so much to him to summit Denali again.

The Line - Mark Westman's Long Quest to Summit Mount Russell

Mark Westman has been climbing in the Alaska Mountains for nearly 30 years, and has been a Denali climbing ranger for 10 years. He has challenged Mount Russell, located at the southwestern end of Denari National Park on three different routes in 27 years. With Sam Hennessee, he climbed in late April in one day. This is the ninth climb to the summit of 11, 670 feet altitude, and Westman believes that they may be the most reliable way to reach this unbearable summit.

Sam Hennessy climbs the rock wall just below Russell. Photo: Mark Westman

Mt. Russell, East Wall and South Ridge

At 9:45 am on April 27, Paul Rodelick dropped Sam Hennessy and me to the Upper Dalic Glacier, just below the eastern wall of Russell, our purpose.

We were thinking about going back and forth at high speed. He quickly set up a tent to hide food and vivolic equipment, and left 30 minutes after landing in light. With Courtney Kitchen and Lisa Van Cyber, he followed the same line as he climbed in the spring of the previous year, and began to climb the left side of the east wall. At that time, they wanted to carry skiing and descend from the summit. They climbed the snow and ice slopes at an altitude of 3, 600 feet, and they reached the southern ridge. They withdrew and returned to Dal Glacier with skiing.

The route on the eastern wall where Sam and I followed were steep to 50 ° on the hillside, and the snow that had climbed by boot turned into a sustainable stiff Nebe and occasionally ice. We proceeded to a flat place near the base of the upper south ridge at an altitude of 9, 600 feet. Up to this point, I almost climbed with nozile.

The line of the Hennessy Westman Route on the east wall of Mount Russell and the southern ridge. The first climb (1962) reached the south ridge from the back of the mountain. The left is the south wall and the southern ridge (2017) on the left, and the right is the original east wall (1989) and the northeast ridge (1972). The photo is Mark Westman. Mark Westman has been climbing in the Alaska Mountains for nearly 30 years, and has been a Denari climbing ranger for 10 years. He has challenged Mount Russell, located at the southwestern end of Denari National Park on three different routes in 27 years. With Sam Hennessee, he climbed in late April in one day. This is the ninth climb to the summit of 11, 670 feet altitude, and Westman believes that they may be the most reliable way to reach this unbearable summit.

Sam Hennessy climbs the rock wall just below Russell. Photo: Mark Westman

Mt. Russell, East Wall and South Ridge

At 9:45 am on April 27, Paul Rodelick dropped Sam Hennessy and me to the Upper Dalic Glacier, just below the eastern wall of Russell, our purpose.

We were thinking about going back and forth at high speed. He quickly set up a tent to hide food and vivolic equipment, and left 30 minutes after landing in light. With Courtney Kitchen and Lisa Van Cyber, he followed the same line as he climbed in the spring of the previous year, and began to climb the left side of the east wall. At that time, they wanted to carry skiing and descend from the summit. They climbed the snow and ice slopes at an altitude of 3, 600 feet, and they reached the southern ridge. They withdrew and returned to Dal Glacier with skiing.

The line of the Hennessy Westman Route on the east wall of Mount Russell and the southern ridge. The first climb (1962) reached the south ridge from the back of the mountain. The left is the south wall and the southern ridge (2017) on the left, and the right is the original east wall (1989) and the northeast ridge (1972). The photo is Mark Westman. Mark Westman has been climbing in the Alaska Mountains for nearly 30 years, and has been a Denali climbing ranger for 10 years. He has challenged Mount Russell, located at the southwestern end of Denari National Park on three different routes in 27 years. With Sam Hennessee, he climbed in late April in one day. This is the ninth climb to the summit of 11, 670 feet altitude, and Westman believes that they may be the most reliable way to reach this unbearable summit.

Sam Hennessy climbs the rock wall just below Russell. Photo: Mark Westman

Mt. Russell, East Wall and South Ridge

At 9:45 am on April 27, Paul Rodelick dropped Sam Hennessy and me to the Upper Dalic Glacier, just below the eastern wall of Russell, our purpose.

The route on the eastern wall where Sam and I followed were steep to 50 ° on the hillside, and the snow that had climbed by boot turned into a sustainable stiff Nebe and occasionally ice. We proceeded to a flat place near the base of the upper south ridge at an altitude of 9, 600 feet. Up to this point, I almost climbed with nozile.

The upper ridge is the route of the first team on Mount Russell in 1962 (see AAJ 1963). They accessed the airplane landing from the west to the Chedtrosna glacier (currently impossible due to glacier retreat). This ridge section has been repeatedly climbed after Dana Dramond and Freddie Wilkinson have pioneered a new route to climb Russell's south wall and southern ridge directly (see 5, 000 ', AK Grade 4, AAJ 2018). 。

A gentle section on the upper ridge of Russell. Photo: Mark Westman.
There were several tricky sections that traverse 50 degrees ice and knife edge ridge from crossing the ridge. This part used a rope, and then a hundreds of feet proceeded with no zails, avoiding many crevas without difficulty. Immediately below the top there was a wall of the rifle, which was close to the vertical, and there was a fantastic gargoyle terrain around it. We were the ninth team, just seven hours later, just seven hours later, a few minutes later, just seven hours later, a few minutes later.
name
The peak, which is currently known as Mount Russell, seems to have been called Todzorno Hoodigero (literally "Kawanoyama") in the words of the Upper Cuscokwim Asabascan. According to a study on the names of indigenous residents sponsored by James Kali, Professor of the University of Alaska, the names of indigenous people, Mt. Russell is currently owned by the National Park Service. 。 The current Mount Russell was named after Israel Cook Russell, one of the AAC founding members. California's 14er Mount Russell is also named after his name.
In any direction, there was no cloud and there was no wind. I had been challenging Russell 20 years ago while suffering from a storm, and there were many seasons where I couldn't leave Tarkitna due to unseasonable weather due to a fixed partner and schedule. I was really happy that I was able to reach this outstanding summit.

Sam and I got off the landing site in just four hours, and took 11 hours round trip to the first day of the mountain. The next morning, Paul came to pick me up. The upper ridge is a route of the first team on Mount Russell in 1962 (see AAJ 1963). They accessed the airplane landing from the west to the Chedtrosna glacier (currently impossible due to glacier retreat). This ridge section has been repeatedly climbed after Dana Dramond and Freddie Wilkinson have pioneered a new route to climb Russell's south wall and southern ridge directly (see 5, 000 ', AK Grade 4, AAJ 2018). 。

A gentle section on the upper ridge of Russell. Photo: Mark Westman.

There were several tricky sections that traverse 50 degrees ice and knife edge ridge from crossing the ridge. This part used a rope, and then a hundreds of feet proceeded with no zails, avoiding many crevas without difficulty. Immediately below the top there was a wall of the rifle, which was close to the vertical, and there was a fantastic gargoyle terrain around it. We were the ninth team, just seven hours later, just seven hours later, a few minutes later, just seven hours later, a few minutes later.

name

The peak, which is currently known as Mount Russell, seems to have been called Todzorno Hoodigero (literally "Kawanoyama") in the words of the Upper Cuscokwim Asabascan. According to a study on the names of indigenous residents sponsored by James Kali, Professor of the University of Alaska, the names of indigenous people, Mt. Russell is currently owned by the National Park Service. 。 The current Mount Russell was named after Israel Cook Russell, one of the AAC founding members. California's 14er Mount Russell is also named after his name.

In any direction, there was no cloud and there was no wind. I had been challenging Russell 20 years ago while suffering from a storm, and there were many seasons where I couldn't leave Tarkitna due to unseasonable weather due to a fixed partner and schedule. I was really happy that I was able to reach this outstanding summit.

Sam and I got off the landing site in just four hours, and took 11 hours round trip to the first day of the mountain. The next morning, Paul came to pick me up. The upper ridge is the route of the first team on Mount Russell in 1962 (see AAJ 1963). They accessed the airplane landing from the west to the Chedtrosna glacier (currently impossible due to glacier retreat). This ridge section has been repeatedly climbed after Dana Dramond and Freddie Wilkinson have pioneered a new route to climb Russell's south wall and southern ridge directly (see 5, 000 ', AK Grade 4, AAJ 2018). 。

A gentle section on the upper ridge of Russell. Photo: Mark Westman.

There were several tricky sections that traverse 50 degrees ice and knife edge ridge from crossing the ridge. This part used a rope, and then a hundreds of feet proceeded with no zails, avoiding many crevas without difficulty. Immediately below the top there was a wall of the rifle, which was close to the vertical, and there was a fantastic gargoyle terrain around it. We were the ninth team, just seven hours later, just seven hours later, a few minutes later, just seven hours later, a few minutes later.

name

The peak, which is currently known as Mount Russell, seems to have been called Todzorno Hoodigero (literally "Kawanoyama") in the words of the Upper Cuscokwim Asabascan. According to a study on the names of indigenous residents sponsored by James Kali, Professor of the University of Alaska, the names of indigenous people, Mt. Russell is currently owned by the National Park Service. 。 The current Mount Russell was named after Israel Cook Russell, one of the AAC founding members. California's 14er Mount Russell is also named after his name.

Sam and I got off the landing site in just four hours, and took 11 hours round trip to the first day of the mountain. The next morning, Paul came to pick me up.

All of the terrain we followed had been climbed before, but the eastern wall and the South Ridge were not connected as a single top route. Hennessy-waistman (5, 700 ', UIAA V, 50 ° ice and 80 ° or more) from the experience of trying the Northeast Ridge in 1997 and climbing most of the Wilkinson-Dramond route in 2019. I am convinced that it is the fastest and easiest way to the summit of Russell. The southern ridge at an altitude of about 9, 600 feet has a completely flat vivac site, although it is exposed to the wind. The technical difficulty is modest, but this route is sustainable, serious and dedicated.

Alaska Mountains Top 5

Mark Westman, one of the most experienced contemporary climbers in Alaska, gave five most memorable or personally important climbing in the Alaska Mountains. If you arrange them in order of age, they will be as follows:

In 2001, Mark Westman at Infinite Spar in Sultana (Mount Forker). Photo: Joe Purrier

Denari South Battress (1954 route) climbed with the late Joe Pureer from April to May 1996. It is an important mountain that I first reached the top of Denari, and at the same time, a true wilderness adventure for a month in a completely isolated state. The partnership with Joe led to a bigger one that I had been waiting for.

In June 2001, with Joe Puria, Infinit Spar on Mount Forker. It is one of the most committed routes among the routes we have climbed so far, and is the best achievement that we have gained after a 1 0-year climbing partnership with Joe, a beginner.

In June 2003, Mount Hunter South Ridge went with Forest Murphy. [Highly difficult mixed and ice climbing, ful l-fledged ic e-like, high and huge mountain traverse, ultimate state, and above all, the most legendary cornering and knife edge ridge (The Happy Cowboy) 。

In April 2006, along with Enmon Walsh, "The Warrior's Way" on Mt. Glos Bonner. There is no such opportunity to climb a large face (Direct East Face) on the west side of Ruth Gorge. This route is the last of the three new routes we peak (the second, third, and four climbing), and the King Line is straight to the center of the face. Above all, there are runnouts in some places, but are relatively safe, technical, but easy to approach, and are repeatedly climbed twice.

Denari Denari Diamond climbed with Colin Haley in June 2007. This climbing was a big ste p-up for me, both in terms of technical and style, and showed a migration from a slower and heavy climbing to a lighter and faster modern alpin e-style technique. The fact that we climbed over 8, 000 feet in just 45 hours was a step that exceeded the possibility I had imagined many years ago, and all literally planned in the living room at home. It was one of the rare climbing that proceeded perfectly.

Place in the giant

Lisa Roderick, Westman's wife (and the sister of Paul Rodelick in Pilot), has been a base camp manager in the Kahiltona Glacier for over 20 years. (She challenged Russell with Westman and his late Joe Puria in the late 90's). Her reminiscence records spelled out the cumulative time of about 4 years spent in the glacier while watching the airplane and climbers who enter and exit Denari's base camp will be published in early November: A Place Among Giants: 22 Seasons at DENALI BASECAMP.

The Rhine is a newsletter of the American Alpine Journal (AAJ) and is distributed by e-mail to more than 80, 000 climbers a month. Click here for past archives. Are you interested in supporting this magazine? Please contact Heidi McDawell. Do you have an article that can be published in AAJ? Please contact us by email: [Email Protected].

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Prescription-September issue

The following reports described the accident at Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. This is a longer form of reports that appeared in the 2024 "Accidents in North American Climbing". If you are a partner level member or higher, "Axidents" will always reach your mailbox.

This book is full of good luck and bad luck, but unfortunately it is mainly the latter. The tragic accident occurred on the third pitch of the Seneca Rock's popular route, when a thre e-year climber intentionally fell a leader. The rope was not on the edge, the gear was operating perfectly, and there was no mistake in the village. He was expecting a safe fall, albeit long. On the contrary, the rope was cut, and he fell tragic.

The third pitch, which is the final pitch of Simple J Malarkey, climbs between the overlap and the triangular roof that tower slightly above the cave. This pitch is a place where a fatal rope cut accident (yellow X-mark) occurred in August 2023. Kushitofo Gorney

Falling on a rock | Calabinar Catrope

Seneca Rock, Momonga Hera National Forest

The following reports have been received from Arthur Kearns, the owner of the local guide and the Gandalm Climbing Shop and the Seneca Rock Climbing School.

On August 5, I started climbing Simple J Malarkey (3 pitch, 5. 7) at a tw o-person party. The upper part of the second pitch ends in a rocky corner alcohove on the top. At the third pitch, leader Danny Gerhart, 24, put a 0. 75 Camarot, just above the villain, and then climbed to the left. Gelheart encountered a hornet nest and went down to the villain. The slope that ended the second pitch was down to the right. This was the order that other climbers use most.

Gelheart was about 5 feet from the belay. He left the second 0. 75 Camarot, then moved to the second Alcove on the right, about eight feet, about eight feet. Here, Gelhardt put No. 3 Camarot in a shallow and slightly flared pocket. (In this piece, both the stretched alpine draw and the no n-extended alpine raw were attached). At this point, he removed the second 0. 75 Camarot to prevent excessive rope dragging.
Gelhardt attempted to move from this stance and to the right, which is the most commonly used sequence. At the core, the leader must move on the roof of a 3-mete r-high rockboard. Protection is prepared, but the leader cannot see it until it gets to the core. This rock hand hold is not very impressive because water flows from above and has a polished feel. Gelheart went down to the previous stance and discussed the choice with the breecher because he could not find the gear. At that time, the sun looked into the face, making root finding difficult. The climbing team discussed the options, but Gerhart decided to leave.
Gelheart, who climbed on the last piece and could not find an additional protection, said that he was intentionally falling (acknowledged that it would be a big one). After that, he released his hand before loading the rope and dropped about 1. 5 meters. According to the belly, there was enough time to remove 2-4 feet sagging until the rope exploded. The bareyer did not feel the falling climber on the villain, and Gelheart fell on the ground from about 130 feet (about 9 meters).
Many climbing party immediately headed for rescue, but the fallen climber died on the spot.
According to evidence, the rope was disconnected by the Alpin Low's rope end carabiner (Petur spirit) attached to the third Camarot. The carabiner was attached to the completely stretched alpine row and was located on the rock slabs just below Camarot. There was a rope sheath fluff inside the carabiner. No rope sheaths were found on the nearby rocky rim or sla b-shaped rock wall. In a photo of the accident site, a rope of about 7 feet extended from the Gel Heart harness timing. A 3-4 foot core was exposed on the part where the rope was cut. All individual core bundles are cut in the same length, indicating that they were not cut across edges, but were "cut".

name

Chanes analyzed as follows:

It is difficult to imagine how the carabiner cut the rope. But let's explain here. The rope away from the village crossed the slightly overhanged rock above the first piece. The overhang has a 6- 8-inch V-shaped groove, which seems to prevent the strand from moving to the right. At the time of the collision, the rope's Vile Stand would have laid on the sla b-shaped rock surface before entering the carabiner, and the carabiner was clipped by the 3rd Camarot extended deder. Just as the ATC guide road strand locked down to Bace Land, the leader rope was also locked down. The rope wrapped around the carabiner crushed the rocks and the rocks underneath, and focused on a small rope between the gelheart and the cam.

In this very unusual accident, the carabiner supporting the rope of the Alpine quick draw seems to have functioned like a guide mod e-specific villain device. The climber (upper side), which supports the load, sandwiched the Villy Stand (lower side, below the carabiner) between the carabiners and the rock. The rope was cut. Rope was not involved in the cutting of the rope, and the rock was not observed in the rock. Drawing: Foster Denny Many climbing parties immediately rescued, but the fallen climbers died on the spot.

According to evidence, the rope was disconnected by the Alpin Low's rope end carabiner (Petur spirit) attached to the third Camarot. The carabiner was attached to the completely stretched alpine row and was located on the rock slabs just below Camarot. There was a rope sheath fluff inside the carabiner. No rope sheaths were found on the nearby rocky rim or sla b-shaped rock wall. In a photo of the accident site, a rope of about 7 feet extended from the Gel Heart harness timing. A 3-4 foot core was exposed on the part where the rope was cut. All individual core bundles are cut in the same length, indicating that they were not cut across edges, but were "cut".

Analysis

Chanes analyzed as follows:

In this very unusual accident, the carabiner supporting the rope of the Alpine quick draw seems to have functioned like a guide mod e-specific villain device. The climber (upper side), which supports the load, sandwiched the Villy Stand (lower side, below the carabiner) between the carabiners and the rock. The rope was cut. Rope was not involved in the cutting of the rope, and the rock was not observed on the rock. Drawing: Foster Denny Many climbing parties immediately headed for rescue, but the fallen climbers died on the spot.

Analysis

Chanes analyzed as follows:

It is difficult to imagine how the carabiner cut the rope. But let's explain here. The rope away from the village crossed the slightly overhanged rock above the first piece. The overhang has a 6- 8-inch V-shaped groove, which seems to prevent the strand from moving to the right. At the time of the collision, the rope's Vile Stand would have laid on the sla b-shaped rock surface before entering the carabiner, and the carabiner was clipped by the 3rd Camarot extended deder. Just as the ATC guide road strand locked down to Bace Land, the leader rope was also locked down. The rope wrapped around the carabiner crushed the rocks and the rocks underneath, and focused on a small rope between the gelheart and the cam.

In short, Gel Heart foled Factor 2 in a carabiner. The pinched rope has effectively reduced the rope in the system to about 6 feet. It is up to a more qualified person to calculate the impact of a rope of about 6 feet from 9 feet to 11 feet from 9 feet and the energy of the energy when the energy is added to the bend angle of the carabiner with a rope of about 6 feet. let's. Needless to say, it was enough to cut the rope immediately.

There is one tragic fact. The sling that gelheart stretched out may have been perfect when the carabiner was installed, but tragicly, the carabiner shifted to a fateful position. If the carabiner was just 2 inches left and right, the carabiner would no longer lie on the rock and hang in the free space. Did Gerhart's first sling on the piece that Gelheart put on the carabiner at the time of collision changed? This is because the first piece was ultimately removed before the bareyer was hanging on the ground, so it was not possible to accurately reproduce how the rope was passing.

Apart from the fact that Gelheart was slightly out of the route, I think this was an unusual accident. The 2-inch movement of the carabiner may have divided life and death.

(Source: Seneca Rock Climbing School, Guide, Arthur Chans)

Editor's Note: From Pete Takeda:

After hearing this case, I emailed Chans, a very experienced local guide. The day after the accident, Karns climbed his fellow guide and simple J. Malkey. Khan's observed and discussed with the brees, and reached the above conclusions based on the deep knowledge of the area and route.

I also conducted a widely investigated survey to the village and finally climbed together. The state of the rope was good and had never been exposed to dangerous chemicals.

In Howenot2, Ryan Jenxus posted his evaluation and wrote that "the test result was normal, and it was cut off with acceptable power."

The belly also sent the intact part of the rope to Ryan Jenxus in HowNot2 and requested a break. Jenx posted the evaluation to Instagram. He says, "I don't know what happened. Climbing should be as safe as possible, but the risks are as safe. We lost good ..."

I remember that Ryan showed a video of Howenot2 that Ropes (9. 4 mm) tested and an example of (another) Camaro, who was messed up with a great (unknown) power. No. 3, when Danny fell, looked perfect after the accident. However, Ryan said in the video that if the rope was cut off by power alone (it was cut at 10. 86/11. 33kn in the video), the cam would have been deformed. However, I think the rope must have been cut off right near the carabiner or at least worn out. Also, in that video, the cut end seemed to be different from the time of the accident. In the video, the core was not protruding or hiding behind the sheath. After the accident, the end of my rope had a severa l-inch empty sheath on the other side of the core. "

ANAC Canadian editorial department, Rob Chisnal memo:

Rob Chisnal is a climbing safety consultant and a member of the American Law Medical Academy. In addition to a civil case related to climbing accidents, he has also testified in criminal cases on murder, suicide, automatic erotic deaths, other accidents related to knots and bundle.

Chisnal considered Khan's report and sent it to ANAC, "The explanation is healthy." He pointed out as follows:

The rope became thinner, and the lightweight carabiner was no longer a round cross section. Strength-distortion analysis allows the manufacturer to remove unnecessary metals from the carabiner, and many carabiners have become T-shaped and H-shaped (sharp).

The diameter of the sports rope is currently 10mm or less, and the problem rope was 9. 4mm. Therefore, no matter what kind of pinch point you have, the same force has been added to a much smaller surface area than several decades ago. The carabiner may have looked like a dull knife for a moment. And maybe, the surface of the rock at the pinch / cutting point was out of the way, and the power was further concentrated.

I have observed a person who has a problem when descending from the slabs and descending over the vertical walls and overhang. In this case, the angle of the rope from the carabiner may be zero, and a pinch point may be created.

Judging from the description of the damaged rope, it seems that the sheath was cut first and the position moved, and the core strand was exposed.

The rope that moves sideways on the sharp edge does not sound as a "van". The Byrayer clearly remembers the loud noise of "pounding" when the rope is broken. If the rope is not so dramatic, when the rope is pulled straight, it usually sounds like a rubber string.

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U. S. climbing center latest information

Photo Provision: AAC member John Glassberg

Since 1993, AAC offices, libraries and museums are in the American Mountaineing Center (AMC) in Golden, Colorado. Over the past few years, the AAC and Colorado Mountain Club have evaluated the future of AMC, including the option of selling, managed, and jointly used by us. We are informed that we sold AMC buildings on September 10, 2024 today. AAC will continue to move into this building, but on the other hand, we will strive to achieve our mission and concept a future place that will continue to contribute to members and donors.

AAC library and museums will be closed on September 20, 2024 for catalogs and inventory.

During this migration period, the library will suspend new scannings, new surveys, and book sales. For the AAC Library and the Mountain Museum, we will continue to promise an exciting future that modernize these important resources for future generations, in honor of the contributions of past donors and members.

Finally, I would like to thank Glen Polzac, a board of directors who dreamed of attracting the organization to Golden a few decades ago, and the members and donors who contributed to the realization of their dreams. Your contribution, vision, and foresight brought this moment to bring the club the exciting future potential.

The Rhine Global Ambition

A mechanical engineering professor at the University of Seattle unravels Uzbekistan's geographical mystery and climbed the highest peak in the country. (This highest peak was the 141st when the professor aimed at climbing the highest peak of all countries in the world). In addition, Eric Gilbertson's recent achievements in Eric Gilbertson, such as climbing Everest, climbing Kanchenjunga, climbing the "Seven Stance", and climbing Yukihohite, are only a few.

Near the summit of Alpomish. Photo: Eric Gilbertson Eric Gilbertson

The following is an excerpt from Eric Gilbertson's report for AAJ2024.

Alpomish: First Ascent

Until recently, a broad, rocky 4, 643-meter peak in the Gysar Mountains on the border of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan was widely accepted as the highest peak in Uzbekistan. It was based on a 1981 Soviet topographic map, the most accurate and up-to-date map of the region. (Recently, some online sources have mistakenly referred to the mountain as Khazret Sultan.) While researching Peak 4, 643 as a possible first summit by the Soviets in the 1960s, I noticed that a peak about 6 kilometers south on the border known as Alpomish may be higher than Peak 4, 643. Andreas Fridensberg (Denmark) and I planned to carry differential GPS units and spirit levels to both peaks to determine which was higher.

Acclimatized from climbing Pik Korzhenevsky (7, 105m) and Pik Ismoil Somoni (Pik Communist, 7, 495m) in Tajikistan, Andreas and I headed to the Uzbek border and began our approach from the village of Saltag on August 21. We hiked southwest along the Dikondara River, cached a few days' worth of food, and continued south over several glacier-covered 4, 000m passes and many ranges. Our base camp was next to an unnamed glacier below the steep east face of Alpomish.

First ascent of the east face of Alpomish (5. 8). The rock face is about 400m high. Photo: Eric Gilbertson Eric Gilbertson

A four-spired peak rose above the camp, each with a 400-metre granite face. The southernmost spire appeared to be the tallest, but I estimated that by eye.

On August 23, we hiked up the east face and scree-climbed a large gully until we were stopped by a huge chockstone. I led up the rock face and carefully traversed left to reach the top of the chockstone. Above the waterfall in the gully, the ice continued down to the notch. Having left our ice gear down, we climbed the rock face and the top of the ridge to the left. We came to a gendarmed summit ridge and took a final knife-edge to the summit.

Denari South Battress (1954 route) climbed with the late Joe Pureer from April to May 1996. It is an important mountain that I first reached the top of Denari, and at the same time, a true wilderness adventure for a month in a completely isolated state. The partnership with Joe led to a bigger one that I had been waiting for.

Gilbertson and Fridensberg on the summit of Alpomish. Photo Eric Gilberatson

After a hanging down and down climming, I returned to the camp just before midnight. The route is the Upper East Face (300m, 5. 8).

The next day, he turned back the route over the glacier pass, received food cache, and walked to the foot of 4, 643.

On the 25th of the month, we climbed the northeast ridge. The knife edge's fourth grade scramble and the 5. 7 two pitches lasted for a long time. At the summit, the site level was used to measure the angle inclination up to the alpomish. As a result, it was found that Alpomish was higher than the peak of 4, 643 and was the highest in Uzbekistan.

In July 2019, Andreas Fridensberg stands on the top of Noshak Takamine at an altitude of Afghanistan at an altitude of 7, 492 m (two years ago when it was occupied by Taliban). Photo: Eric Gilberatson Eric Gilbertson

Seven stances

A mountain trail that climbs the huge Pobeda, the highest peak of Kyrgyis. Photo: Eric Gilbertson Eric Gilbertson

Eric Gilberatson and Andreas Fridensberg's upcoming Alpomsberg were part of four years of effort to aim for the highest peak in all seven countries, which end with "Stan". Most of these were very difficult climbing goals. There is no doubt that you are at the highest point of Alpomish. I set up a differential GPS, but the capture of the satellite did not work. Therefore, I measured the biased angle of 10 to 20 minutes, looking down at the distant mountains with each vision, toward the peak of 4, 643. Obviously low. Alpomish has no anchor nor Cologne, and there is no evidence that people have passed. According to our measurement, alpomish was 25 meters (± 8 meters) higher than the peak of 4, 643, and the altar was about 4, 668 meters.

Gilbertson and Fridensberg on the summit of Alpomish. Photo Eric Gilberatson

After a hanging down and down climming, I returned to the camp just before midnight. The route is the Upper East Face (300m, 5. 8).

The next day, he turned back the route over the glacier pass, received food cache, and walked to the foot of 4, 643.

In July 2019, Andreas Fridensberg stands on the top of Noshaku Takamine at an altitude of Afghanistan (two years before Taliban). Photo: Eric Gilberatson Eric Gilbertson

Seven stances

A mountain trail that climbs the huge Pobeda, the highest peak of Kyrgyis. Photo: Eric Gilbertson Eric Gilbertson

Eric Gilberatson and Andreas Fridensberg's upcoming Alpomsberg were part of four years of effort to aim for the highest peak of all seven countries, which end with "Stan". Most of these were very difficult climbing goals. There is no doubt that you are at the highest point of Alpomish. I set up a differential GPS, but the capture of the satellite did not work. Therefore, I measured the biased angle of 10 to 20 minutes, looking down at the distant mountains with each vision, toward the peak of 4, 643. Obviously low. Alpomish has no anchor nor Cologne, and there is no evidence that people have passed. According to our measurement, alpomish was 25 meters (± 8 meters) higher than the peak of 4, 643, and the altar was about 4, 668 meters.

name

After a hanging down and down climming, I returned to the camp just before midnight. The route is the Upper East Face (300m, 5. 8).

The next day, he turned back the route over the glacier pass, received food cache, and walked to the foot of 4, 643.

Seven stances

A mountain trail that climbs the huge Pobeda, the highest peak of Kyrgyis. Photo: Eric Gilbertson Eric Gilbertson

Eric Gilberatson and Andreas Fridensberg's upcoming Alpomsberg were part of four years of effort to aim for the highest peak of all seven countries, which end with "Stan". Most of these were very difficult climbing goals.

In 2019, he climbed Noshak (7, 492m, Afghanistan). In 2021, they tagged the top of Han Tengri (7, 010m, Kazakhstan) and Pobeda (7, 439m, Kyrgyzstan). In 2022, he climbed K2 (8, 611m, Pakistan) without auxiliary oxygen. In 2023, he climbed to Ismile Momoni (7, 495m, Tajikistan), Ai Ribaba (3, 139m, torque menistan), and Alpomish (about 4, 668m, Uzbekistan). Pobeda (via the Abarakov route) is the most difficult of the seven technically and physically (technical climbing at high places without a fixed rope, deep snow, serious purpose and frostbite dangers). Gilbertson reports, the logical most (the danger of land mines and kidnapping).

Everest and Kanchenjunga

Eric Gilbertson, who climbed two 7000 meters in Asia last summer, challenged Everest in May, as if it was not enough (reached 8, 500 meters without the support of supplemented oxygen and sherpa. ) Later, he flew to Kanchenjunga, climbed to the world's third largest Takamine, and added the high peak in India to the list.

Gilbertson, along with his twin younger brother, Matthew, hopes to eventually reach the highlights of all countries in the world in the project, which began in 2010. As of this month, Eric has climbed to high places in 143 of the 196 countries around the world. For his abundant trip reports, see the Country High Point website.

Gilbertson and Fridensberg, who climbed the 5th Soviet Union's 7, 00 0-meter peaks, applied for the title of Snow Pardo, a great honor for climbing Russia. In November 2023, Gilbertson became the third American yukihe (after William Garner, Randy Starlet in 1985), and Fridensberg became the first Denmark, but prove its case. It wasn't, the authorities argued that they had climbed Pobeda's wrong top. Gilbertson embarked on a geographical investigation again and immediately settled. The result is described in "The True Summit Location of Peak Pobeda".

how?

How did a 3 8-yea r-old assistant get so many free time and money to do so many international expeditions? Gilbertson explains:

"I'm a professor at Seattle University, which means I get about three months off every summer to climb, and winter and spring breaks between semesters. We also have winter and spring breaks, which was important for mountains like Kangchenjunga, which you have to climb in the spring." As graduate students, Gilbertson and his brother Matthew were invited to an international engineering conference to be paired with climbers. "We try to be as frugal as possible," he said. "Most of the high points in Europe we climbed as part of long-distance bicycle tours, where we camped in the woods every night. We don't pay guides, unless we're required by law. We sign up for airline credit cards to get free flights." Gilbertson and his partners also pay for custom weather forecasts fed to them by satellite from Denver meteorologist Chris Tomer, maximizing efficiency and success during their expeditions. For Everest, Gilbertson hired the relatively inexpensive Seven Summit Treks (SST) for logistics and base camp services, then climbed over British Columbia on his own, without paying for oxygen (the same way he will summit K2 in 2022). While he was looking for guide services, he negotiated discounts for multi-summit and multi-climber.

As a result, SST required Gilbertson to hire sherpas and use oxygen for the steep ascent of Kangchenjunga after Everest. "It would cost another $11, 000, but I could barely pay it by draining my bank account," Gilbertson wrote in his travel journal. "That would be cheaper than losing all the money I'd already invested and paying more in the future to come back, so I reluctantly agreed."

The Line is a newsletter from the American Alpine Journal (AAJ) that is emailed to more than 80, 000 climbers every month. Archives are available here. Interested in supporting the magazine? Contact Heidi McDowell. Have an article for AAJ? Email us at: [email protected] .

Prescription - August Issue

A Parks Canada rescue helicopter responds to an accident on Mount Louis on August 20, 2023 (Mount Edith is in the background). Mount Louis is an iconic limestone tower and is home to several popular multi-pitch rock climbs. Some are moderate grades, but all offer a Canadian Rockies-style adventure. Photo Parks Canada

The following report describes an accident in the Canadian Rockies that will be published in the upcoming 2024 issue of Accidents in North American Climbing. Looking back at the accidents of the past year, one in particular stands out as being particularly unlikely. Almost exactly one year ago, a climber fell without rope from a belay anchor on the fourth pitch of a 15-pitch climb. He fell 35 meters and came to rest on a ledge three pitches above with minor injuries. Some might attribute this to conscientious intervention, a kind of divine guidance. Or perhaps it was just luck. Read more

Fall from an anchor | Tether mis-clipping

Mt. Louis, Banff National Park, Alberta

At 5 a. m. on August 20, 2023, Alistair Hall (34) and I, Adam Laycock (33), began our approach to attempt the Gmozer route on Mount Louis. Although this 15-pitch 5. 9 has bolted anchors, it is also a traditional trad route, and there are limitations to climbing with gear. Alistair was confident in leading the crux pitches. It was our first time climbing this mountain, but we were both locals and knew the choppy nature of the Canadian Rockies well. We were confident about the route and the conditions that day.

The climb was slower than expected. It was past noon when we reached the top of the 1st pitch, and with 10 pitches left, we decided to stop climbing. The belay stations were bolted, so we decided to descend in the same way we climbed. The 1st and 5th pitches were rappelled without any problems.

After rappelling the 1st pitch, I secured myself to the anchor with my personal anchor system (PAS). My PAS is a 120mm nylon sling that I put around my waist through the belay loop and adjust the length with two knots. Because my belay stance was narrow, I moved the locking carabiner to a knotted loop closer to the belay loop to shorten the PAS, then clipped the carabiner to one of the rappel rings, locked it, weighted down the PAS and tested it before rappelling down. I spent a few minutes preparing the rope for my next rappel, threading it through the rappel rings, coiling it, and adding a knot for safety.

And I fell. I was not connected to the wall or the rope, and there was a hig h-angle terrain below. I fell down to the 4th pitch of 35 meters, 5. 6. Eventually, it stopped on a slope. I was conscious. I shouted and asked the Alistar on the top and the hikers below. There was one half rope under my legs, I tied it into an eigh t-shape and clipped it to the villain loop. I shouted with Alistar that I was alive, safe but injured, so I didn't have to get out of me.

My left ankle is visibly deformed and cannot support my weight. It was clear that I couldn't rescue it myself, so I sent a SOS message using INREACH devices. Within 30 minutes from the fall, Parks Canada rescue helicopters have found us on the rock wall and have begun rescue.

Parks Canada rescue squad rescues Raycock, which has fallen from 35 meters. The pants have fallen by falling. The rock shelves were narrow and the slope were down, so if you were not conscious, you would have slipped more. When landing, it was stable enough to fix the body, but it was unstable. Photo photo: Parks Canada

analysis

The Raycock's accident was so eerie to the other accident recently caused by Arizona's climbers. Both climbers were ove r-hand knots with 20mm thick webbing in a circle of 120cm in length to make their own PAS adjustment pockets. This is common. In either case, the tethers were not clipped correctly in the carabiner, and the knot was caught at the bottom of the tether carabiner without a gate.

In the August 2023 accident and another accident in 2021, the basket at the bottom of the same model of the same model was flat enough to keep the knot a temporary weight. In this reproduction, the clogged knot is pulled up and it is on the clipping point. Photo: Pete Takeda Pete Takeda And I fell. I was not connected to the wall or the rope, and there was a hig h-angle terrain below. I fell down to the 4th pitch of 35 meters, 5. 6. Eventually, it stopped on a slope. I was conscious. I shouted and asked the Alistar on the top and the hikers below. There is one half rope under my legs, I tied it into an 8-shaped shape and clipped it on the Billay Loop. I shouted with Alistar that I was alive, safe but injured, so I didn't have to get out of me.

Parks Canada rescue squad rescues Raycock, which has fallen from 35 meters. The pants have fallen by falling. The rock shelves were narrow and the slope were down, so if you were not conscious, you would have slipped more. When landing, it was stable enough to fix the body, but it was unstable. Photo photo: Parks Canada

analysis

The Raycock's accident was so eerie to the other accident recently caused by Arizona's climbers. Both climbers were ove r-hand knots with 20mm thick webbing in a circle of 120cm in length to make their own PAS adjustment pockets. This is common. In either case, the tethers were not clipped correctly in the carabiner, and the knot was caught at the bottom of the tether carabiner without a gate.

In the August 2023 accident and another accident in 2021, the basket at the bottom of the same model of the same model was flat enough to keep the knot a temporary weight. In this reproduction, the clogged knot is pulled up and it is on the clipping point. Photo: Pete Takeda Pete Takeda And I fell. I wasn't connected to the wall or rope, and there was a hig h-angle terrain below. I fell down to the 4th pitch of 35 meters, 5. 6. Eventually, it stopped on a slope. I was conscious. I shouted and asked the Alistar on the top and the hikers below. There is one half rope under my legs, I tied it into an 8-shaped shape and clipped it on the Billay Loop. I shouted with Alistar that I was alive, safe but injured, so I didn't have to get out of me.

analysis

In the August 2023 accident and another accident in 2021, the basket at the bottom of the same model of the same model was flat enough to keep the knot a temporary weight. In this reproduction, the clogged knot is pulled up and it is on the clipping point. Photo: Pete Takeda Pete Takeda

Removing or recovering a carabiner from a daisy pocket or ranyard triggers a mistake. After a fatal crash, Reikock wrote on ANAC: "In order to shorten the PAS in the anchor, the first (longest) loop clip is not removed. Clip the additional lock carabiner to the short loop and clip it to the first locker (edito r-i n-method: Before this, it was easier to evaluate, and in my case, I completely removed the clip from one loop.

One of the causes of the accident was that Raycock's Daisy Knot was unpleasant due to irregular connection. As a result, the possibility that the knot would stick to the bottom of the carabiner increased. He writes: "Despite the weight to test PAS, poor ove r-hand knots temporarily supported my weight." He added, "Before the knot slip through the carabiner, we did not check the anchorage thoroughly in consideration of human errors."

It is noteworthy that it was difficult to evaluate the important part of webbing. The two strands that form a clipping pocket were the same color and were at the same height. In addition, the total weight test was hindered because the rampant drop station was on the rocks. In the end, it may have been completely lucky to save Raycock's life.

During the fall, Alistar was entangled with the rope he used to hang down the fifth pitch. The rope was still used by Alistar to hang the 5th pitch. A 7 0-meter half rope was hanging 30 or 35 meters below the pitch 4 anchor. When I fell in the ledge, I was sitting on the rope tail and still 5-7 meters above the pitch 3 anchor.
"In addition, the helmet was broken, but I was able to keep my consciousness. It is a left fibula fracture and a number of abrasions that require surgery."
From Anac Report Archive:
Introducing two accidents from the past ANAC, indicating the possibility that the climber may be out of the anchor. Both are tragic injuries.
In all cases mentioned here, if you carefully observe the anchor connection, and conduct a more vigorous weight test, you may have prevented miserable accidents. What is common is that the technical mistake occurred without the addition of the Daisy / Teser system. The falling was after the system was gained or after it was.

Climbers place a lot of importance on the anchor itself, but they can make equally critical mistakes when installing and removing the anchor. Triple checking the connection is a crucial, yet often overlooked, step.

From the ANAC Essentials Archive

For more information on clear weight transitions from one cord, rope, or webbing to another, see outdoor educator and climbing author Molly Loomis' 2017 Essentials: Clear Weight Transitions

We'll mail you Accidents in North American Climbing!

Published annually since 1948, Accidents in North American Climbing documents the year's most significant and instructive climbing accidents. Each accident is analyzed by experts to determine what went wrong and how climbers can prevent similar problems in the future.

As an AAC member, you'll receive this publication at the end of the summer each year.

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Protect Amity Worme and YOSAR Climbing Ranger Talk Yosemite Beliefs

Yosemite again! We have professional climber Amity Worme and climbing ranger Jesse McGay as guests to talk about what's going on in Yosemite and the community discussion about the future of climbing ethics and style.

In this episode, we hear her take on crusher Amity Worme, the ground-up on El Cap, whether she's been pushing her limits lately or just getting out of hand, and how she sees her role in the climbing community. We also talk about her climbs last fall, Book of Hate (a brutal 13d stem corner) and Pineapple Express (a completely free version of El Niño).

Denari South Battress (1954 route) climbed with the late Joe Pureer from April to May 1996. It is an important mountain that I first reached the top of Denari, and at the same time, a true wilderness adventure for a month in a completely isolated state. The partnership with Joe led to a bigger one that I had been waiting for.

Hear about an important conversation happening in one of the epicenters of the climbing community.

Episode Resources

The Line - July 2024

America the Beautiful

It's a great season to enjoy climbing in the Takamine in the western United States. So, this time, I will introduce six bran d-new mountain routes from six states in the western part.

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Bluebell (Cascade Mountains, Washington)

Index Mountain Northern Norwegian Battress Bluebell (21 pitch, 5. 13-) line. Photo: Nathan Hadry

Denari South Battress (1954 route) climbed with the late Joe Pureer from April to May 1996. It is an important mountain that I first reached the top of Denari, and at the same time, a true wilderness adventure for a month in a completely isolated state. The partnership with Joe led to a bigger one that I had been waiting for.

Ejuille Extra (Sierra Nevada, California)

James Holland follows the second pitch (5. 10+) of the new direct start (5. 10+) to Eguille Extra's East Battress. Photo: Cam Smith
East Battress of Eguille Extra was a 14, 04 8-foot satellite in Mount Whitney, a little aid in 1978. 45 years later, James Holland and Cam Smith set a 1 0-pitched route on 5. 10+ and added a thre e-pitched direct start. At AAJ 2024, Smith said, "James and I are free versions of East Battress (1, 230 ', IV 5. 10+), and some other people check the Aiguille EXTRA, an unknown jewel of Eastern Sierra. I hope it will be. "
Takin Arbai the Tasks (Sot e-Sote Sote Mountains, Idaho)

Benji Walland, who climbs the core of the third pitch (5. 12A R) of Takin Arbai the Tasks. Photo: Greg Rickenbacker

A rare new route to climb a beautiful Elephantations Pat was completed in September by Greg Rickenbacker and Benji Walant. TAKIN '' '' 'ER by the tusks (625', 5. 12A R A3) is a route of the granite layer in the southeast face of the granite layer that combines difficult aid and solid free climbing. Bolts are prohibited in Sa w-tooth National Forest, so you can enjoy exciting climbing. Walant, who grew up in a nearby town Stanley, wrote in AAJ's report that the establishment of a route at Elephantations Pale was "many years of dream."

Spirit Animal (Rocky Mountains, Colorado)

The Locky Mountains National Park Chiefs Head northeast face, the spirit animal line at an altitude of 1, 500 feet. Photo: Bill Duncan
"Considering that I had never stepped into the Rocky Mountains National Park in the Glava Gauge, my plan to climb 1, 500 feet 1, 500 feet of Chiefs Head (13, 577 feet) with rope solo. It may be said, "says Nathan Brown on AAJ2024. But that's what he did. After gaining a track record in North Carolina, Brown, who moved to Colorado, spent two summer and steep, steep chief heads, and established Spirit Animal (10 pitch, 5. 11) alone. Brown finished his work on the route last September, but had not yet reached a full route on a continuous climb. Just this month, he again stepped into Glacha Gorge and succeeded in rope solo, completely free, while holding Vivoac on the way.
Directissima (Mt. Owen, Wyoming State)
(A) Grand Titon (b) Mount Owen (1) Original North Ridge Route (1951). (2) Directissima (2023). Both routes climb a long ridge and aim for the mountains of Mount Owen. However, FULL's Kit a-ridge has been connected to the Grand Kit a-ridge across Mt. Owen. Photo: Acrotelion ｜ Wikimedia~Titons' guide, Michael Abbey, has long climbed Mount Owen's northern ridge with a more direct route, closer to the ridgeline than the original North Ridge Route (Clayton-Emerson, 1951), which has entered diagonally from the left. I was imagining. He repeated several times, but in 2023 he completed Directissima (V 5. 10) in August with Karen Kotaka for two days. In AAJ's report, Abbey states that another North Ridge Direct was climbed in 2001, but it is possible that the pitch, which will be the key to this new line, has not been climbed until last summer. expensive.

Menage Trout (Montana Bea Tous Mountains)

Jackson Marvel climbs the sixth pitch of Menazi Trout at the height of East Rosebad Creek of Bea Toz Mountains. Photo: Austin Schmitz

Until 2023, only one Overall Route of Bears Face was known: URSUS HORRIBILIS, founded in 1998 by Andrew McLean and the late Alex Row. Last summer, Cornell, Maver and Justin Willis, along with photographer Austin Schmitz, who was photographing the team of The North Face, was three years ago, Cornell, Maver and Justin Willis, along with the photographer of The North Face's team members. I completed the line I started. Ménage Trout was 13 pitches, 5. 10+ R A2+. Astorga wrote in AAJ's report that the team wanted to return to make this climbing free.

Bears Face has first climbed in the winter in 2023, with Adrian Costa, Charlie Faust, and Paul Shornnessy trying many times and then on the last day, the Dancing Bears on the left side of the face (310m, 310m. Wi5 M6 R) was complete.

Explore these peaks

Let's take a closer look at the six peaks and mountains on this interactive map by ONX and Mountain Project.

THE LINE is a newsletter of the American Alpine Journal (AAJ) and is distributed by e-mail to more than 80, 000 climbers every month. Click here for past archives. Are you interested in supporting this publication? Please contact Heidi McDawell. Do you have an article that can be published in AAJ? Please contact us by email: [Email Protected].

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Evacuation activity by the educational Ganison Black Canyon search and rescue helicopter

Photo Provision: AAC member John Glassberg

The winner of the Rocky Talky Search Rescue Award this year is a search and rescue team of Black Canyon, who became unconscious due to a terrible fall accident in Black Canyon in 2023, and treated it in a valley below 2, 000 feet. We performed incredible technical rescue that we needed. In this episode, we talked to Sean Heart, one of the members of the SAR team on the scene, and the unique challenges of black and rescue, the miserable rescue of blackhawk helicopters, and the importance of communication in rescue. , And I was always taught how to have plan B.

The details of the Rocky Talky Search & Rescue Awards, watching movies depicting this incredible rescue, returning to the local search and rescue team, and the great gear is https: //rockytalkie. com /Pages/SAR-AWARD.

2024 Rocky Talky Search and Rescue Award Listeners Announcement

In partnership with Rocky Talkie, we are pleased to announce the winners of our 2024 Search & Rescue Awards. Through this grant, Rocky Talkie will donate $75, 000 to six under-resourced SAR teams across the country. On the Rocky Talkie website, you can read their stories and watch a film by John Glasberg about this year's notable rescues.

You can also enter a giveaway to win $5, 000 for your local search and rescue team, plus your own safety prize package, by visiting the Rocky Talkie website.

Pay What You Can (PWYC) Toolkit

At AAC, we believe that addressing issues of equity in climbing is not at odds with best business practices. That's why we designed the Pay What You Can (PWYC) Toolkit in partnership with The North Face. It's a free resource for gyms who want to offer alternative payment models alongside or instead of traditional memberships. While much of AAC’s work is outdoor-centered, we recognize that many climbers get their start in the gym. Therefore, a holistic approach to climbing access must consider challenges across the entire climbing spectrum, including indoor climbing. With our toolkit, we hope gyms can implement sustainable PWYC models and provide products that are affordable to those on the lower end of the income spectrum, helping them grow memberships and maintain profitable businesses.

To analyze the viability and best practices of PWYC programs, we surveyed 47 Pay What You Can (PWYC) programs in the climbing gym industry and interviewed 16 program leaders. PWYC programs come in many forms, but what they all have in common is the essential goal of providing an economic option for individuals and families who cannot afford to purchase a day pass or membership to a gym at “regular price.”

This toolkit contains:

An analysis of the nine components that make up a PWYC program

Two case studies based on real gym experiences and outcomes

Insights and best practices

Frequently asked questions

Resources including grants to help with the one-time costs of implementing a PWYC program, a peer-to-peer directory of gyms running PWYC programs, and example applications (if you're considering a "proof of need" model).

Are you in the climbing gym industry and looking to start a PWYC program at your gym? Get started with a PWYC grant!

Prescription - July 2024

With summer in full swing, climbers are turning their attention to northern latitudes, higher elevations, and higher peaks. This month, we look at two accidents that occurred last summer at Teewinot (12, 330 feet) in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. Although the accidents differed in their immediate causes and ultimate outcomes, they share a common origin: the use of hiking-specific applications for selection, preparation, and route finding, and the use of climbing-specific resources.

Last year, Grand Teton National Park was the eighth most visited national park in the United States. 2023 also saw a disturbing trend of technical climbs being featured on popular hiking-specific apps. This led to several rescues and one fatality. Photo: Acroterion Acroterion | Wikimedia

Stranded | New Snow Climbers

Teewinot Mountain, Grand Teton National Park

At 3:45 p. m. on July 14, National Park Service personnel received a cell phone call from two young climbers stranded at Teewinot (12, 330 feet). The male climbers, ages 19 and 20, reported being in the snowfield north of the Idol and Worshiper rock formations. They had ice axes but did not know how to use them. They also reported that the snow was too soft to allow them to descend any further. The Incident Commander instructed them on the proper way to descend. The climbers reported by phone that despite this assistance, they still needed to be rescued.

The stranded climbers were lowered by rope and reached the bottom of the snowfield and a dry trail by 7:30 p. m. The East Face of Tewino (yellow line) was the site of several rescues and one fatal fall in 2023. A late start, a large team, and reliance on a popular climbing app led to the tragedy. Photo: Acroterion Acroterion | Wikimedia

Analysis

There have been several similar cases in the Teton Range, both in 2023 and in the past, where climbers were underprepared for their objectives. The summer climbing season often starts with snow-covered peaks and ends with mostly rock climbing terrain. In transitional periods, climbers need to prepare for current conditions rather than ideal conditions.

In recent seasons, Ranger has noticed that technical climbing routes are increasing on hikin g-only apps and websites. Many of the fourth or fift h-class rock climbing, which are highly dangerous and may fall, are incorrectly published as hiking. The climber should be careful to collect route information from a climber or a source specialized in climbing.

(Source: Grand Titon National Park Search Rescue Report)

In August 2023, NPS rescue workers and climbers were shor t-hunged in Tiwinot (background). Photo Dave Weber

A fatal fall | No rope climbing

Grand Titon National Park, Tiwinotto Mt.

On August 10, nine climber teams were trying to climb Tiwinnot via the east wall (early fifth grade). As we approached the summit, a group of 4 7-yea r-old female climbers fell about 150 feet (about 1. 5 meters) and died. The team descended one climber for rescue, and the remaining climbers decided to rescue on their mobile phones. At 7:30 pm, we contacted NPS staff.

After reconnaissance by helicopter, it was decided to dispatch a ground team to rescue the lef t-handed climbers, as the sun went down late. At 10:30 pm, four climbing rangers were launched, arrived at the site at 2:15 am, and spent the night with the climbers all night. On the morning of the 11th, three helicopter shuttle took the rescue and climbers to the valley. Later, shor t-range transportation was collected.

Analysis

This unfortunate accident had several factors.

The start delay. The team started climbing in the afternoon, which was much later than many climbers recommended. The NPS volunteer, which had been descending at 2:00 pm, told the team that their climbing was slow and that other climbers were already descending from the summit. Volunteers also pointed out the lack of equipment needed to keep climbing safely. Still, the team continued to climb.

A large team. It seems that there were nine climbers in the group led to the accident. In most cases, a large team will be slower than a small team, as breaks and decisio n-making may be prolonged.

Use of Hiking Apps The team relied on information obtained from popular hiking applications (as previously described in this prescription). In particular, the climb is listed on several platforms as a hike. Interviews with survivors indicate that they were under the impression that Teewinot East Face was a traditional hike. The climb is rated 5th grade. (Source: Grand Teton National Park Search and Rescue Report)

Figure 1: Screenshot of AllTrails. com Teewinot page taken on July 7, 2024.

EDITOR'S NOTE:

While preparing these reports for the soon-to-be published North American Climbing Accidents 2024, we found that several popular hiking apps featured Teewinot East Face. The most disturbing of these was the AllTrails. com page. On Teewinot's page, the climb was referred to as a "trail" not once but three times (see Figure 1). The strongest warning was that it was a very difficult route "only for experienced adventurers" and that "proceed with caution." In contrast, reviews of the Tewino Trail posted by members revealed a different reality. Here are some of them:

Alyssa Cook wrote on September 23, 2022: **I have not hiked this trail, but my friends did two days ago and required a search and rescue. They spent 24 hours on the mountain, at least 12 of which were in a severe storm. As the ranger who coordinated the search and rescue said, there is no real "trail" to climb this peak (or Grand Teton), even if it is listed on AllTrails.

Caroline Berlin wrote on September 6, 2022: We came across four parties that were way off the trail. They neglected to call out "rock" and dropped 30 lbs of rock on the party climbing from below.

Tadami S wrote on February 9, 2022: Make sure you bring a helmet and rope. My friend fell on this mountain and died in September 2021.

Tim Reddy wrote on August 18, 2023: This is not a hike. This is technical (5. 4) rock climbing. Most parties will plan to rope on the way up and down. If you don't know how to put on protection, set anchors, belay, and rappel, hire a professional guide who does. Many people have been killed or seriously injured climbing this route with a no rope.

I went further and downloaded Alltrails. com's iPhone app. The explanation of the app seems to have been updated. The description of the web page has not changed. In the iPhone app, Tevino was appropriately explained as "a route that requires technical climbing skills and equipment ...". This was also included in this route, "The most dangerous route in the Teaton Mountains ...". I don't know when the content was updated, but I guess it was changed after the accident in 2023, and it was probably introduced on the same description on the Alltrails. com web page (Fig. 1.). There is.

I contacted Alltrails. com by email, but there was no answer. On the app, the updated route description can be read as a combination of Chatgpt the comments of the crowded user. It lacks human nuances, but there is a lot of tension to make up for it. Unfortunately for the above two, this correction was a bit too late. Lessons: These apps that are not specialized in mountain climbing are to be used carefully and understand the necessary experience levels and tools. Finding route information / condition from the information sources specialized in climbing friends and climbing.

Serious, honest and accurate comments about Teewinot are Max Morgan posted in MountainProject:

Snow is easy in the 4th grade. The classic old school titton sandbags have killed many people in the crisis. Statistically, this climbing is the most dead climbing in Titon. At least four people have died in this climbing in the last few years. I climbed at least 12 times. When there is no snow ... Route finding is difficult, and there are a number of trails that have a large difficulty and exposure. The easiest route I've ever met is at least two 5-class slab moves. I call it 5. 5. Perhaps there is a easier route, but if I couldn't find it 12 times, you would probably not find it.

As always, I would like to thank volunteers, local correspondents, and editors who make our efforts in reality. In particular, I would like to thank the ANAC senior editor Dave Weber. Dave, in addition to a distant national park, is the climbing ranger of the Grand Titons and the Flight Rescue Corps / Hoist Rescue member of the Intermountain Life Flight. He provided a wide range of reports and images in both the newsletter "Prescription" and the "2024 Accidents" scheduled to be issued soon.

In addition, I am deeply grateful to those who take the time to submit an accident report. No matter how much you say. If you spend enough time in climbing, you will experience or witness an accident. The accident is inevitable, but it is your choice to report.

Finally, if you are a member of the AAC partner, you will soon reach the accident and the American Alpine Journal in 2024. Safe.

-Pete Takeda edito r-i n-chief

From the Great Trango Tower must read American Alpine Journal

By: Sierra McGiwnee

A wonderful panoramic view of Great Trango Tower in the southeast from the top of Trango II. (A) K7 (6, 934m). (B) Yamendu Canguli (7, 163m). (C) Masshablum (7, 821m). (D) Mandu East (7, 127m). E) Mandu West (7, 081m). (F) Urducas (6, 320m). (G) At first glance an unknown. (H) Lilligo glacier. (I) Great Trango northeast (6, 231m). (J) Great Trango Maine (6, 286m). (K) Southwest of Great Trango (about 6, 250m). (1) Normal route of Great Trango. (2) The top of the Class Noyarsk route. The lower left is the summit of Trango Tower. PC: Jacob Schwei Hofer A wonderful panoramic view of Great Trango Tower in the southeast from the top of Trango II. (A) K7 (6, 934m). (B) Yamendu Canguli (7, 163m). (C) Masshablum (7, 821m). (D) Mandu East (7, 127m). E) Mandu West (7, 081m). (F) Urducas (6, 320m). (G) At first glance an unknown. (H) Lilligo glacier. (I) Great Trango northeast (6, 231m). (J) Great Trango Maine (6, 286m). (K) Southwest of Great Trango (about 6, 250m). (1) Normal route of Great Trango. (2) The top of the Class Noyarsk route. The lower left is the summit of Trango Tower. PC: Jacob Schwei Hofer A wonderful panoramic view of Great Trango Tower in the southeast from the top of Trango II. (A) K7 (6, 934m). (B) Yamendu Canguli (7, 163m). (C) Masshablum (7, 821m). (D) Mandu East (7, 127m). E) Mandu West (7, 081m). (F) Urducas (6, 320m). (G) At first glance an unknown. (H) Lilligo glacier. (I) Great Trango northeast (6, 231m). (J) Great Trango Maine (6, 286m). (K) Southwest of Great Trango (about 6, 250m). (1) Normal route of Great Trango. (2) The top of the Class Noyarsk route. The lower left is the summit of Trango Tower. PC: Jacob Schwei Hofer The Great Trango Tower is located in the Bartro Glacier area in the Pakistan Mountains. Calakorum is mainly located in northern Pakistan, but also forms a variety of ecosystems to Tajikistan, China, Afghanistan and India. The most advanced alpinists climb the world's largest new route and visit the area to test their skills. At the Great Trango Tower at an altitude of 6, 286m, you can enjoy highly difficult granite face climbing and unforgettable rock characteristics. The history of this mountain climbing is deep, and AAJ has compiled a mus t-have climb list of Great Trango Tower. The Great Trango Tower is located in the Bartro Glacier area in the Pakistan Mountains. Calakorum is mainly located in northern Pakistan, but also forms a variety of ecosystems to Tajikistan, China, Afghanistan and India. The most advanced alpinists climb the world's largest new route and visit the area to test their skills. At the Great Trango Tower at an altitude of 6, 286m, you can enjoy highly difficult granite face climbing and unforgettable rock characteristics. The history of this mountain climbing is deep, and AAJ has compiled a mus t-have climb list of Great Trango Tower. The Great Trango Tower is located in the Bartro Glacier area in the Pakistan Mountains. Calakorum is mainly located in northern Pakistan, but also forms a variety of ecosystems to Tajikistan, China, Afghanistan and India. The most advanced alpinists climb the world's largest new route and visit the area to test their skills. At the Great Trango Tower at an altitude of 6, 286m, you can enjoy highly difficult granite face climbing and unforgettable rock characteristics. The history of this mountain climbing is deep, and AAJ has compiled a mus t-have climb list of Great Trango Tower. Great Trango Tower Year Ascent: 1977 Year Published: 1978 Author: Dennis Heneck Dennis Heneck Great Trango Tower Year Ascent: 1977 Year Published: 1978 Author: Dennis Heneck Dennis Heneck Great Trango Tower Year Ascent: 1977 Year Published: 1978 Author: Dennis Heneck Dennis Heneck Telephoto view of Gasherbrum IV and Hidden Peak across the Baltoro Glacier from the summit of Great Trango Tower. Photo by Galen A. Rowell. Telephoto view of Gasherbrum IV and Hidden Peak across the Baltoro Glacier from the summit of Great Trango Tower. Photo by Galen A. Rowell. Telephoto view of Gasherbrum IV and Hidden Peak across the Baltoro Glacier from the summit of Great Trango Tower. Photo by Galen A. Rowell. Trango Towers at Sunrise Trango Towers at Sunrise Trango Towers at Sunrise Trango Towers at Sunrise Trango Towers at Sunrise Trango Towers at Sunrise Author: Kelly Cordes Author: Kelly Cordes Author: Kelly Cordes 3. Climmer vs. technology 3. Climmer vs. technology 3. Climmer vs. technology The article was written at the turn of the century when technology and climbing began to collide. Jared Ogden, Mark Shinnot, and Alex Rowe faced a moral dilemma for expeditions and hosting live Internet sites for sponsor Quokka Sports. Quokka. com was one of the only virtual adventure sports sites in the dawn of the Internet until it went bankrupt in the spring of 2001. Ogden, Sinot, and Rowe brought in "any cyber space technology", including computers and video cameras, and fixed 3, 000 feet ropes. Foreseeing today's era when climbing videos on Tiktok and Instagram, this article has begun discussions on climbing technology and its position. However, once standing on the wall, the concerns about the team's technology disappeared, and they were hooked on the world of Karakorum's ghost altitude. The article was written at the turn of the century when technology and climbing began to collide. Jared Ogden, Mark Shinnot, and Alex Rowe faced a moral dilemma for expeditions and hosting live Internet sites for sponsor Quokka Sports. Quokka. com was one of the only virtual adventure sports sites in the dawn of the Internet until it went bankrupt in the spring of 2001. Ogden, Sinot, and Rowe brought in "any cyber space technology", including computers and video cameras, and fixed 3, 000 feet ropes. Foreseeing today's era when climbing videos on Tiktok and Instagram, this article has begun discussions on climbing technology and its position. However, once standing on the wall, the concerns about the team's technology disappeared, and they were hooked on the world of Karakorum's ghost altitude. The article was written at the turn of the century when technology and climbing began to collide. Jared Ogden, Mark Shinnot, and Alex Rowe faced a moral dilemma for expeditions and hosting live Internet sites for sponsor Quokka Sports. Quokka. com was one of the only virtual adventure sports sites in the dawn of the Internet until it went bankrupt in the spring of 2001. Ogden, Sinot, and Rowe brought in "any cyber space technology", including computers and video cameras, and fixed 3, 000 feet ropes. Foreseeing today's era when climbing videos on Tiktok and Instagram, this article has begun discussions on climbing technology and its position. However, once standing on the wall, the concerns about the team's technology disappeared, and they were hooked on the world of Karakorum's ghost altitude.

Want to read more about the technology in the mountains and its position? Click here for Steve House's "Business Climbing" and the media about the Parallel Worlds climbing.

4. Russian roads

Author Yuri Kochelenko (Russian Publishing: 2000

Parallel World: American (left) and Russian teams working on the headwall pitch of the northwest wall of Great Trango. Yuri Kochelenko shooting.

While Jared Ogden, Mark Shinnot, and Alex Row are in Parallel World, Yuri Kochelenko, Alexander Odinzoff, Ivan Samai Renko, and Egori Potankina are the right line of their right, Great Trango Tower, northwest. I climbed the wall to the parallel. I was unexpectedly fascinated by the warm hospitality of the American team. Kosherenko wrote a lot of hot tea from Alex's cup, thinking about the condition of a wet rock. On July 24, after shared the fix slope and climbing, the two groups left, and the difficulties of the Russian team, which climb the dangerous 5. 10 to 5. 11, and the difficult A3 and A4 sections. Two days later, Odinzoff, who was climbing the roof, torn off a huge block, rolled down the face, was caught in a wel l-arranged cam, but injured his waist and shoulder. Odinzhv's fall was just the beginning of their fierce battle climbing the wall. The group faced unstable weather, including snowstorms, lightning strikes that fell close to many times, falling transport bags, and reduced food. The magnificent story of the Russian Road (VII 5. 11 A4, 2675m), which is beautifully written by Yuri Kocherenko, can be read here.

Mountains always accept tribute, but sometimes the price may seem overwhelming. However, humanity cannot exist without extreme things.

5. A magnificent attempt of Trango Tower

Great Trango Tower and Trango Nameless Tower, Attempts. Published: 2001 Author: Timmy O'Neill

Miles Smart on his second attempt to climb the Southwest Ridge of Great Trango Tower. Photo: Timmy O'Neill

Funded by the Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grant (now the Cutting Edge Grant) from the American Alpine Club, this document records Timmy O'Neill and Miles Smart's second attempt to climb the Southwest Ridge of Great Trango (now the Azeem Ridge). O'Neill and Smart waited out bad weather on the Trango Glacier for about 50 days. During one of three short weather attempts, they attempted the Southwest Ridge of Great Trango, but "ended up in a forced bivy at 18, 000 feet" after 12 hours of climbing 4, 000 feet of 4-5. 10 grades. They tried again to no avail, despite climbing 300 meters from the summit, and moved on to the possibility of climbing Eternal Flame on the Nameless Tower. Their first attempt on Eternal Flame was a "one-day, single-push climb" that ended in a difficult decision to descend six pitches from the summit. Three days later, they "blasted" from the col and attempted to summit Eternal Flame. Eight hours into the climb, O'Neill wrote, "the hand of Allah caught me and slammed me into the wall." After short-fixing his rope, O'Neill fell 100 feet. Read more about the epic challenge on the Trango Towers here.

6. Triumph and tragedy on Great Trango Tower

Norway Buttress, 1984.

Robert Caspersen, 34th pitch. Photo by Per Ludvig Skjerven.

In 1984, a Norwegian team consisting of Hans Christian Doseth, Finn Daeri, Stein P. Arsheim and Dag Korsrud attempted the first ascent of the east face of Great Trango. Due to lack of food and delays in the ascent of the face, the team decided to split up. Aschheim and Korsrud successfully rappelled to the Dange Glacier, while Daeri and Doseth continued on. From the ground, Aschheim and Korsrud watched their companions reach the summit with their telephoto lenses. Tragically, Daeri and Doseth fell to their deaths during the descent. Their bodies were later found at the base, but were buried shortly after by an avalanche. Their epic line was named the Norwegian Buttress. "Triumph turned to utter tragedy" The Norway Buttress was detailed in a 2000 AAJ article, which also covered another new route on Great Trango, the Norway Trango Pulpit Direct (VII A4 5. 11, approx. 2200m).

7. Grand Voyages

Great Trango Tower, East Face, Swiss-American Expedition, Second Ascent of the East Summit. Published: 1993 Author: John Middendorf

At Great Trango Tower. Photo: John Middendorf

We chose this article because of the difficulty of the climbs it presents and because it was written by the one and only John Middendorf, whose recent passing is a great sadness for us.

Grand Voyage (Bongard-Middendorf Route). This photo does not show the 1984 Norwegian Route, which scaled the same buttress and was the first to climb the east summit of Great Trango. The Grand Voyage started far left of the Norwegian Route, reunited with it for three pitches on a large ledge midway, and finished to the right of the Norwegian Route. Photo: John Middendorf The Swiss-American expedition, consisting of Swiss climbers Xaver Bongard, Ueli Bühler, François Studiman, American photographer Ace Querre and John Middendorf, attempted to establish a new line on the east face of Great Trango Tower. The Grand Voyage (grade VII, 5. 10, A4+) started on the left of the original Norwegian route and finished on the right. Bongard and Middendorf climbed capsule-style, moving their high camp upwards and creating a "safe haven" on the wall. They set up five camps on the wall, four hanging and one on a snow ledge midway up. This climbing style resulted in them staying on the wall for almost a month. The ice, snow and rockfall were objectively too dangerous for the group. As a result, the belay stations were placed in "suicidal" positions. The group climbed the final five pitches below the snow ridge, using vertical ice climbing, "rotten aids," and free climbing a "dangerously steep corner system" called "Gollum's Gully." "At times, huge sections peeled off the wall and slammed into us. Read more about the legendary "Grand Voyage" (grade VII, 5. 10, A4+).

8. Pitch by Pitch, Move by Move: Behind the Scenes of the Grand Voyage

Great Trango Tower Published: 1995 Author: Xaver Bongard, Club Alpin Suisse.

At Great Trango Tower. Photo: Ace Kvale.

If you're like us, you can't get enough of the epic tales surrounding The Great Voyage (Grade VII, 5. 10, A4+), and in 1995 AAJ published Xaver Bongard's extensive travelogue of the expedition, complementing Middendorf's shorter report. If you like the finer details and running accounts of an expedition, this is the story for you. "The 23rd pitch was behind us. To belay, I got stuck in a narrow chimney. John was bigger than me, so I couldn't do it. I picked up my pack, climbed to his level, and ducked into the crack. John kept climbing on the outside. I saw him fall and swing like a pendulum. Read more about the voyage from Bongard's point of view here. Sadly, Xaver Bongard died in a BASE jumping accident in April 1994. This story was published in the 1995 AAJ as a tribute to him and to provide more information about the groundbreaking climb of Great Trango.

9. Stay Tuned: First Ski Ascent of Great Trango

Recent news surrounding Great Trango Tower includes the first ski descent. May 9, 2024 On the 20th, Chantelle Astorga, Christina Rustenberger and Jim Morrison skied down the west side of Great Trango Tower. The 2024 AAJ has already been sent to the press and we can't wait for it to get into your hands!

Want to learn more about Great Trango Tower and the history of the Trango Towers? Read John Middendorf's article The Trango Towers in Review, which appeared in the 2000 AAJ. Stay tuned for future deep dives into the Nameless Tower and other archives!

Want to catch up on your reading before the 2024 AAJ comes out?

October 10, 2024

September 30, 2024

2024 September 25, 2024 September 25, 2024 September 23, 2024 September 23, 2024 September 23, 2024 September 11, 2024 September 11, 2024 September 11, 2024 September 1, 2024 1 day September 11, 2024 September 11, 2024 August 21, 2024 August 21, 2024 August 21, 2024 August 15, 2024 August 15, 2024 August 15, 2024 August 5, 2024 August 5, 2024 August 5, 2024 Outdoor Alliance and American Alpine Club Team Up to Protect Rock Climbing Landscapes Will Plants tries his hardest as the sun sets on Johnny Cat at Indian Creek in Bears Ears National Monument. Photo by AAC member Will McKay

Climbers have meaningful relationships with the landscapes they love, and defending public lands is an important part of that relationship. Outdoor recreation participants have strong ties to the places they visit, and it is these ties that make us a powerful force for conservation. The Outdoor Alliance is a national coalition of outdoor recreation advocacy groups that the American Alpine Club has been a part of for six years, and together we work to protect public lands and waters and to advocate for outdoor recreation, including climbing. The AAC is the nation's largest community of climbers, dedicated to defending the climbing landscape and equipping climbers with essential climbing knowledge and rescue.

Since the Outdoor Alliance's launch 10 years ago, the coalition has helped protect 40 million acres of public lands and waters, secured $5. 1 billion in funding for the outdoors, and turned hundreds of thousands of outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor advocates.

Here are some of the key victories that the American Alpine Club (AAC) and Outdoor Alliance (OA) have achieved together:

House Passage of the EXPLORE Act

Climbing Diamond on Longs Peak. Photo by Louder Than Eleven

The EXPLORE Act is the first package of outdoor recreation policy that has been a long-standing priority for the Outdoor Alliance and was recently passed by the House of Representatives. The bill includes a section that directly protects rock climbing experiences on public lands, a major priority for the AAC.

The Protecting America's Rock Climbing (PARC) Act is a key part of the EXPLORE Act and a focal point for the AAC, the Access Fund, and the broader Outdoor Alliance coalition. The PARC Act aims to ensure safe and sustainable access to rock climbing in designated wilderness areas. The act requires federal agencies to recognize recreational climbing as an appropriate activity consistent with the Wilderness Act of 1964, requires that the installation, use and maintenance of fixed anchors be appropriate, and ensures that stakeholders are provided with a public comment period before final climbing management guidance is issued.

AAC also educated its members on the SOAR Act, joining AMGA, one of the leading long-time supporters of the SOAR Act. This is another part of the EXPLORE Act that streamlines recreational permits for outfitters and guides, benefiting other Outdoor Alliance members such as Mountaineers, Mazama, and Colorado Mountain Club.

Now that the House has passed EXPLORE, AAC and OA are lobbying the Senate to pass EXPLORE as well. Read more here.

Restoring Bears Ears National Monument

In 2018, the Trump Administration rolled back protections for Bears Ears National Monument by more than 80 percent and Grand Staircase-Escalante by nearly half. Since then, AAC and its partner, the Outdoor Alliance, have continually educated outdoor enthusiasts on the fight to protect Bears Ears. This included a lawsuit led by the Access Fund against the Trump Administration, advocacy for the restoration of the monuments, and participation in public comment on new management plans for the restored monuments.

In 2021, the Biden-Harris Administration restored protections for Bears Ears and the Grand Staircase, respecting the voices of Native American communities, climbers, and conservationists. Coalition efforts led by the Outdoor Alliance were impactful in bringing outdoor recreation stakeholders together on this issue. AAC is committed to updating its members on the upcoming management plans and actively participating in this ongoing discussion. AAC will continue to advocate for the role of climbing and responsible conservation by sharing its expertise on land management issues related to climbing and liaising with land management agencies, the BLM and USFS, other partners, and local and national climbing organizations to continue to refine the proposed Resource Management Plan and Environmental Impact Statement for Bears Ears National Monument.

Advocating for the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA)

Elim Rim - Journalist, creative writer

Last modified 08.11.2024

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